Jungle ruins and buildings for the Lizardmen army.

 Having produced the Lizard army I felt I needed some jungle terrain for them, so I bought some buildings from Rok Minis who kindly reduced the 28mm scale to 10mm for me. This company also produces 10mm armies I have the painted and based Lizard Men Army and some Ratmen waiting for the painting brush.

The buildings I purchased are shown here, the bottom left corner looks so much like Amon Hen it got diverted to the LoTR project.

I sprayed them all with army builder Fur Brown and then resprayed with Desert Yellow I felt the yellow needed to be sprayed on to brown to get the shade I wanted.

Agrax Earthshade was liberally applied to get the shading in the crevices and then dry brushed with VJ Desert Yellow, as I still wasn't happy I used GW contrast Skeleton Horde, then another heavy drybrush of VJ Desert yellow. 

Then a nice solid dry brush of Bleached bone (yup I have some old paint), Iraqi Sand is the same.

Picked out some areas and glyphs to paint red or green and job done. Easy if we ignore my usual agonising over colours etc.

The yellow bits here were painted with elven grey and then Bad Moon Yellow Contrast.

Some of the scenery was trees, I didn't spray them desert yellow. instead I covered the trees with Cygor Brown contrast, slightly reduced with technical  medium and a degree of patting with tissue to remove excess and a wet brush to move the colour around until I was happy. Various brown dry brushing to get the desired effect, steel legion drab & a little XV-88.

The ruins with the trees I gave an initial base paint of Desert Yellow to the stone then treated them as i did the buildings.

All the ruins, with trees or the bits of wall were all given an extra brush of Iraqi Sand in order to fade the colour.

All trees need a canopy right?

Before final light green scatter

The Canopy was rubberised horsehair, teased out to the shape I wanted, saying that is a lot easier than doing it.
It was my first attempt, I'd bought the stuff years ago but was never at a point where I had to use it.

Having fixed it to the top of the tree I wrapped the rest of the tree in masking tape.
[With hindsight really make sure they are secure, you won't see the fixings once the flock is on.]

I then sprayed the canopy brown.
Sprayed it with an adhesive, don't forget to spray the underneath.
Covered it in dark green foliage, cover top and underneath, [might use a large clump next time]

When dry another adhesive spray and a less complete scattering of a lighter green, to achieve two tones.
When that was dry I sealed it all with cheap hairspray.

After light green scatter

Now I thought I was done and removed the masking tape and based them up, but they didn't look right.

Apparently sunlight is different at the top of a tree and the leaves are lighter, the photosynthesis differs.
So after the hairspray while it was still wet I sprinkled a conventional sawdust scatter at the very top.
- it also hit the grass, but it all adds to it.

More hairspray a little scatter where appropriate and Yes more hairspray. The hairspray is a cheap less solid finish than varnish and dries a little quicker before you apply the next coat.

I've got into the habit of basing my scenery on 100mm hexes, I buy these from Kalistra I buy the brown unflocked ones. I put plastic filler on top paint them 88-XV and dry brush with Iraqi Sand before fixing the buildings & then flocking with an applicator.

My finished results.

From the front

From the rear

Side view 1

Side view 2

A couple of closeups

Lizard Army confront a Tomb Kings Horde, HC!Fantasy - 1st Play Test

 Lizard Army confront a Tomb Kings Horde

First play test of the two armies with a new rules system.

Essential I've created HC! army lists for Warmaster armies and magic. My victim played the Tomb Kings whilst I played the Lizardmen.

Simple game no scenery just line up and charge to test the points allocations, unit creation and magic rather than an indvidual's skills

Result was a resounding win for the Tomb Kings who lost nothing whilst the Lizards lost half the army. Christoph (aka the victim) was delighted with the result and felt the game played like Warmaster without some of the detail that sometimes bogged it down.

I forgot the photos through the game but over three turns not a lot happened as my command rolls ensured half my Lizard army never moved.

Turn 1
I advanced the right wing and fired some shots at the Tomb Kings. The Tomb Kings waited for my arrival with some positional changes as the commander had realised he'd set up incorrectly and fired at the Lizards. Casting Doom and Despair on the Kroxigor who could now only stand and stare

Turn 2
The Skinks in the right wing of the Lizards charged the Skeleton Infantry and were pushed back becoming disordered and were pushed back to their death in turn three. The Terradons flews behind the Skull chucker and fired shots at it whilst the Stegadon advance slowly forwards.
The left wing of the Lizards failed their command again, whilst the Tomb kings facing them advanced a little & cast spells and fired. The middle division joined in attacking the right wing of the Lizards.

Turn 3
The Lizardmen on the left were in combat or failed commands and the division on the left flank also failed. This was just very poor rolling 10+ and blunders, whist break tests were rolling under 7s with excess casualties taking them lower. 
The Tomb kings facing the unmoving left wing of the lizard fired and finally the Lizards moved, backwards as they failed their break tests.
On the Lizard's right wing the Skeleton Infantry polished of the skinks and swept into the Salamander unit destroying it. The centre and cavalry from the right wing of the Tomb Kings charged into the Stegadon which was destroyed in combat. 

The game ended at the end of turn three as half the Lizard army left the table.

Note:
The Tomb King archers had depleted the stamina of the Lizard units so they were almost shaken when the were attacked.
Magic throughout had been as haphazard as it ever was in Warmaster.

I believe I got the stats for both armies about right but I'll need to ensure the General is played as a CIC rather than being in charge of a division, so a little rule tweaking will be required and both the below lists would have an extra Hero HQ.

The Lizard men army was about 1K Warmaster points.

The Tomb Kings also about 1K points

Why did the Lizard lose when the Tomb Kings didn't even lose a unit?

It was one of those unbalanced dice rolling games that happen every now and then and a lack of HQs on the Lizard's side only made it worse.

The Lizard army failed 80% of its command rolls and 80 of it's break tests, whenever a 6 was required, a 1 was rolled and when a 1 was required a 6 was rolled. I could not believe the luck, rolls to hit were failed morale saves failed. The Lizard player (me) usually enjoys great luck with the dice, not today.

Meanwhile the Tomb Kings did what they do shrug off everything, but in addition made far more morale saves and shrugged off brake tests. 

Lizard Men - Lost Children of the Fallen Gods

My first WHF armies way back in 1996 were from the 5th edition box set; Bretonnians and Lizard Men, my son and I had a blast with those models. 

Since those heady days I've played many games and including Warmaster. I have a few Warmaster armies now and wanted to try playing them again.
I'd started playing mainly historical and rediscovered the 10mm Warmaster scale and was playing Hail Caesar! in that scale, I thought why don't I use my Warmaster Models with these rules and since then I've been working on some adaptations for Hail Caesar! that will allow me to play HC with Fantasy units.
I never bought a Warmaster Lizard army but decided I'd like them to be one of my trials HC-Fantasy armies. So bought a set of 3d printed minis, as who can afford the old metal? Then started painting them with the new contrast paints and here are the results.

CiC HQs The Ancient one or Slann alongside a Saurus leader mounted on a T-Rex

Three HQs a Saurus and two Skinks

Two skink Mage HQs

Saurus Warriors with a Temple Guard unit on the front right

Skinks as light infantry and medium archers and skirmishers

Kroxigor units

Terradons

Salamander units with Skinks

Saurus Cold one Riders

Stegadon with Skink crew

Storage Solutions -3

 I am definitely in the Really Useful Boxes camp.

Yes they are heavy, but the are vermin proof, waterproof and stackable. In fact you can even tie the lids down with the predrilled holes, padlock or string, so if you drop them the lid won't fly off?

Their own trays are limiting but perfect for 2 x 60x30mm bases per segment giving 30 secure spaces (see plastic tray in second image), but with trays from Commission Figurines [see note below] the world opens up.

As the base is 2mm deep then a 20mm tray gives 18mm of headroom and of course a 40mm gives 38mm. The lid of the Really Useful box gives you a little wriggle room of about 2mm. 

I also add masking tape looped through handles and glued to itself as handles to lift and lower the trays, you could use string or  ribbon.

As you can see from the various images, it is a very versatile system.

Ancient 6mm: 
4 x 20mm trays - Infantry
2 x 30mm trays- Cavalry and mounted command

Colonial British 6mm + 30mm Tripods:
Careful removal of part of tray base can give you height through other trays. Two 20mm trays essential use up space that might have been wasted and coincidentally give stability to the 30mm models.
One of the 35mm trays, the plastic one is a RUB tray, this is where we started. 

1 x 30mm -  Cavalry and Martian Tripods
2 x 20mm - Artillery and Infantry (both cut to give 40mm extra headroom to 35mm tray
2 x 35mm - Mounted command, mounted and dismounted Infantry -  animals and Bridges

The bottom three trays are stacked first.

Orc Waugh!!!
Army with 6mm Baccus goblins and Battle of five armies models as well as Warmaster 10mm orcs based for a different game.

1 x 40mm - Cavalry Monsters
1 x 35m - Infantry/
2 x 30mm - shorter infantry

The bottom left tray is stacked on the top left one and they are the 3rd and 4th (top) tray, just in case I need that wriggle room. I also put some bubble plastic around the larger model to protect from knocks

Tomb King Army 

10mm Warmaster and Pendraken
3 x 40mm - Cavalry & Infantry with tall banners
1 x 20mm - Bannerless archers

The top left tray is the 20mm and uses wiggle room at the top of the RUB.

Victorian Buildings 

From Leven all based on mini dioramas.

2 x 50mm
1 x 40mm - and it uses that 2mm wriggle room*

*wriggle room
The RUB lid is raised except at the edges, the edges keep the trays tight, but the centre give a little extra room about 2mm and i use this to cheat and get a little extra height. 

If you want to see the original thought process then go to First storage article for an earlier update go to Previous storage article

_________________________________________________________________________________

NOTE:

Commission Figuerines web site is a link the their PDF catalogue with the following instructions.

Ordering

e-mail us at commission@btinternet.com

Let us know what you want from the catalogue

We’ll let you know how much the postage will be

You let us know if you wish to proceed

We send you a Paypal invoice (which includes an option to pay by card)

Re-basing my Warmaster Orcs for PV

I know the phrase 're-basing' brings dread to many, further the idea that Warmaster models might be reused for another game might appal some, but none have been damaged.

However if you have an army that you are going to play in fundamentally a very different way regarding the removal of elements of a unit, then why not go for it. Some will prefer to use sabots, temporary bases to place them on, but foolhardy or not I've decided to go and redo the lot.

Further as I've been playing in 6 mm and 10 mm with bases that are larger than the quantity of models, each can become a little diorama and one thing that was obvious in Warmaster was the lack of space to fit that many models on three bases of 30 x 20 mm, a total footprint of 30 x 60 mm or 90 x 20 mm; ouch! We are basing our 10 mm models (inc WM) to a frontage of 100 mm with a varying depth of between 50 and 60 mm and I think they show off the models very well indeed.

When describing the new PV game in Post Velamentum - 2 I talked about rebasing the Orcs, with a delay of many months, I removed them in July 2018 , I re-based today.

The full army now looks like this:

And in Warmaster rules that's 3425 points.

When I was initially calculating PV/HC! points it seems 250 PV/HC! points equals 1000 WM points.
So that's about 800-900 points, that's a big game. I still have a few bases of Baccus gobos and some WM Boar riders to paint/& base as well as a rock lobber, Giant, Troll unit and 4 Ogres not MW legal however we will see where PV takes us.

Close up of the units.

The Boss and his support staff (SLT)

The Hard as nail Black Orcs (I use GW Orcs)

The core units of Orcs as stated before these are BoFA models

. Obligatory Goblins (Baccus)

Boar Boys and Chariots

Wolf Riders (more BoFA)

Rock lobbers, Giant and Ogres

Finally the Trolls

.......earlier

Hail Caesar! basing for 6 mm and 10 mm games

We all do it differently. I play this game in 6mm with occasional 10mm.
I'm not about to tell you how to base, rather how I do, you can use this as a comparison. All sizes in millimetres.

Infantry
Standard base is 80x40
Small 40x40
Skirmishes 80x40
Warbands are 80x50
Artillery 40x40 

Horse
Standard Cavalry is 80x50 deep
Small unit 40 x50
Light horse small unit in open order 80x25 whilst formed they are 40x50 , future models will be based 40x25 and position as needed, however current models are both as I have the unit twice once in each formation.

If I did large units I'd probably do 100x50 or 100x60

Tiny units elephants for example 30x40or 50

That's our club's preference

Further we like to represent the unit with a different quantity of models or formation

Infantry

Usually about 12 men to a rank

Heavy  4 ranks  warband the same about 48

Medium 3 ranks

Light and archers 2 ranks

Horse

Cataphracts square block 6x3

Heavy horse 2 lines of 9 'V' formation

Medium horse 2 parallel lines of 9

Light horse usually in small units with just 5 postion depending on open or closed order

I've done 5 on a 80x25 or on a 40x50, when I start a new army there will be 3 on a 40x25, giving me 6 in a line or square.

Examples of 6 mm basing for HC!

Cavalry Roman and Samatian
Cataphracts, Medium, Heavy, Medium and lights

Roman and Dacian Infantry
Skirmishers, Legionaries, Warband, Medium, lights and light artillery at the back of the picture.

Command bases,
The largest is rarely used, only if there is an over all General with two legions

Examples of 10 mm basing for HC!

As the models are a little bigger we have reduced the model count and made a small increase to the size of the bases as a result it plays and feels like the 6 mm games we played, with fluid movement and movement options. Things we feel you don't get in a 28 mm game if like us you play on a 6' x 4' table.
We went down this route like all gamers because we could :) in addition we all had fantasy 10 mm models we wanted to play with so are creating a home made Warmaster - Hail Caesar mash.

Early Imperial/Marian Romans
Both three ranks and 10 wide, lights would be two ranks

Orcs mixed units based for a fantasy HC game
Note it's the same number of models that were in the Warmaster units.

Undead based for a fantasy HC game

Undead based for a fantasy HC game

Undead Commands based for a fantasy HC game