Basing my Lizardmen

 I wanted to have a tropical feel with a rich grass base with pools of water and spikey plants.

I usually base my models by placing them on the wet filler, a plastic based filler needs no glue and is almost instant, a sand based filler needs a little Copydex and left overnight to dry. 

The pools of water are rather simple. 

I left areas with no filler or scrapped it off, painted the flat area white, then some Ice Blue, any light blue will do, then Aethermatic Blue as a patchy finish, looking for a patchy algae bloom. 

Finally PVA glue twice, sometimes a with a 2nd coat of Aethermatic Blue between the PVA layers. I then painted the earth a medium brown as I intended to cover most of it I didn't do my usual Iraqi Sand dry brush.

I couldn't make my mind up if I was going to flock before or after I added the plants, in the end I did both but preferred the before. 

If you flock after doing the plants you may end up flocking the plastic and or leave bare earth under them. In temperate basing I think bare earth works, I didn't want it in my jungle bases I wanted rampant growth, but for the swampy light infantry units I wanted a little earth showing

Doing the plants - for sources look at Using plastic plants, sources and application

My spikes were made using elements from a Topiary ball, 

I used either elements 1 or 2 cutting off one part (3) then cut that in to three parts (4) or sometimes 2 by not cutting at 'a' to give me a taller piece.

I drilled 1mm holes to plant them, especially for the long pieces (at the back right in image).

However, if I wanted to achieve the short stubby spikey bits I had to drill 2mm and even 3mm holes to pull through all the stems so I only had the leaves. (Front and sides in the image.) 

Be very careful when drilling, especially with brittle 3D prints, fortunately the glue back together well.

I'd often start with a small size to lead the way, then use larger bits, testing the piece I wanted to pull through using large bits up to 3mm and usually using pliers to pull them through.

When I had the right size hole I'd use loads of superglue gel locating it amongst the leaves where they'd be squeezed together, look at the last image see all the plastic. Before I started doing this excess glue the elements were falling out.

When it was set, I'd cut off the pulled through excess and push in more super glue.

You'll be picking superglue off your fingers for a while, frequent washing during the process helps. 

Be very careful your gluey finger doesn't touch the painted model. I tended to do this a little at a time wondering if it was worth the effort.

Scenery using plastic plants, sources and application

My gaming skills are OK, dice rolls lucky, painting adequate, but I do get compliments for my scenery. It's not world class but in my peer group often complimented.

I've been asked how I make my scenery so I thought I'd show how I source and use the materials.

I use all the plastic plant material I can find but there are three basic targeted sources.

First - Aquarium shops/Plants where you can get special flooring/breeding plants that are placed on the bottom of the tank with a little grit to hide the structure.

On the right is a perfect example of this and you can see the plastic grid/frame (Red ring) to which the individual pieces/elements are attached together. 

In this instance the peg is the same width as a cocktail stick and you can just push the element on. Sometimes the element is the width of a wooden kebab skewer, so no real sourcing issues for the supports. Paint the wood before pushing on the element, glue if required (any).

As you can see it would make a palm tree or a fern depending on the scale.

Look around for suitable plants and as you can see they'll fit almost any scale. if you thread a second element it will double the canopy or make the bush bigger.

Second - Artificial Topiary balls, these are a magnificent supply and the bigger the ball the more elements you get. I find these in Pound Shops, I assume Dollar Stores would hold similar stock. Look for the right foliage for your scheme, though to be honest even mistakes can work. 

Here is a selection showing size variants, foliage variants and as you can see it's assembled the same way, elements on a frame. 

This composite image shows just a few of the possibilities.

These pegs are usually cocktail stick width too. Here is as example using the top left Boxwood topiary ball.

Third - Plants for train sets  I pick up complete mini plants, often with plastic pegs on the bottom, drill the right hole in your base and glue it in, cutting of the excess. 

I buy different sizes of Palm trees and grass bushes from Etsy and eBay, sellers are often on both and prices can vary. 

In fact I can get the Topiary ball there as well as the Aquarium plants, but I prefer to see before I buy those.

NOTE - The topiary balls and aquarium plant can be further broken up and planted individually using a 1mm or smaller bit. 

The three elements on the left consist of a ring for the securing it and four branches, these can be cut off and used individually, drill into a planted area and add a single stand for added texture.

For my Lizard men I got extreme and in these based command units I have used parts of the plant as shown in bottom right of above picture cut them into short lengths.

You can also see the single yellow flower element.

 Go to Lizardmen basing to see how i did the bases.

Final piece of advice is to mix the different pieces in together.

Different palm trees and grass bush sizes, as well as pieces from three different topiary balls.

Glue, generally  a little PVA to hold the cocktail stick into the base and a little of the same or Copydex to hold the plant.

Where you are gluing the plastic peg into the base, or small elements then I use Superglue Gel. 

Your fingers will get covered, work with care!

Read the "Alien Trees 2 6mm-15mm or 28mm Scrub" on how to paint the plastic

Index

Below are some links to my Scenery making blogs. I'll try to remember to add other links as I create them.

Alien Trees 28 mm
Alien Trees 2 6mm-15mm or 28mm Scrub - Talks about spray painting the plastic foliage
Cedar of Lebanon 28 mm - Home made giant tree for 28mm
Epic buildings from Blotz
Giant Cactus 28 mm
Industrial Scenery 28 mm

Jungle Terrain 10mm for the Lizardmen Army

Lizardmen basing
Jungle Terrain 28 mm

KandM Trees s8mm LOTR
Mechanoid Domes

If I forget to add them above you may find them in the Index Page under the heading Scenery 

Jungle ruins and buildings for the Lizardmen army.

Having produced the Lizard army I felt I needed some jungle terrain for them, so I bought some buildings from Rok Minis who kindly reduced the 28mm scale to 10mm for me. This company also produces 10mm armies I have the painted and based Lizard Men Army and some Ratmen waiting for the painting brush.

The buildings I purchased are shown here, the bottom left corner looks so much like Amon Hen it got diverted to the LoTR project.

I sprayed them all with army builder Fur Brown and then resprayed with Desert Yellow I felt the yellow needed to be sprayed on to brown to get the shade I wanted.

Agrax Earthshade was liberally applied to get the shading in the crevices and then dry brushed with VJ Desert Yellow, as I still wasn't happy I used GW contrast Skeleton Horde, then another heavy drybrush of VJ Desert yellow. 

Then a nice solid dry brush of Bleached bone (yup I have some old paint), Iraqi Sand is the same.

Picked out some areas and glyphs to paint red or green and job done. Easy if we ignore my usual agonising over colours etc.

The yellow bits here were painted with elven grey and then Bad Moon Yellow Contrast.

Some of the scenery was trees, I didn't spray them desert yellow. instead I covered the trees with Cygor Brown contrast, slightly reduced with technical  medium and a degree of patting with tissue to remove excess and a wet brush to move the colour around until I was happy. Various brown dry brushing to get the desired effect, steel legion drab & a little XV-88.

The ruins with the trees I gave an initial base paint of Desert Yellow to the stone then treated them as i did the buildings.

All the ruins, with trees or the bits of wall were all given an extra brush of Iraqi Sand in order to fade the colour.

All trees need a canopy right?

Before final light green scatter

The Canopy was rubberised horsehair, teased out to the shape I wanted, saying that is a lot easier than doing it.
It was my first attempt, I'd bought the stuff years ago but was never at a point where I had to use it.

Having fixed it to the top of the tree I wrapped the rest of the tree in masking tape.
[With hindsight really make sure they are secure, you won't see the fixings once the flock is on.]

I then sprayed the canopy brown.
Sprayed it with an adhesive, don't forget to spray the underneath.
Covered it in dark green foliage, cover top and underneath, [might use a large clump next time]

When dry another adhesive spray and a less complete scattering of a lighter green, to achieve two tones.
When that was dry I sealed it all with cheap hairspray.

After light green scatter

Now I thought I was done and removed the masking tape and based them up, but they didn't look right.

Apparently sunlight is different at the top of a tree and the leaves are lighter, the photosynthesis differs.
So after the hairspray while it was still wet I sprinkled a conventional sawdust scatter at the very top.
- it also hit the grass, but it all adds to it.

More hairspray a little scatter where appropriate and Yes more hairspray. The hairspray is a cheap less solid finish than varnish and dries a little quicker before you apply the next coat.

I've got into the habit of basing my scenery on 100mm hexes, I buy these from Kalistra I buy the brown unflocked ones. I put plastic filler on top paint them 88-XV and dry brush with Iraqi Sand before fixing the buildings & then flocking with an applicator.

My finished results.

From the front

From the rear

Side view 1

Side view 2

A couple of closeups

K and M Trees for LotR

If you're playing a game you need scenery and IMO trees, usually quite a few.

I'm known for always overdoing it, so I've done 20.


One of the complaints people make in the game is that the basing for scenry is so thick the models teter and fall over if the are half way on a terrain piece. So I used Hexs from Kallistra they are 2mm wide made from plastic, I've had no issues glueing terrain on. The weight of the trees will make a triple Hex bend ifyou hold it at one end,  but so would a 12"/30cm ruler if you put a lead weight at one end.

Basing material sorted I then chose the trees, these I bought in 2008/9 for the demo game Hands up! that i took to shows. They've been in and out of boxes and still look good, sure they shed but keep then in the samebox and glue what drops off abck on, I've done this once in 14 years. The trees are from K&M

Trees however you can get them from Kallistra too. 

Note the length of metal below the provided trunk, cut it off at the length you want, vary it and alter the height of the tree, then using super glu screw the metal trunk into the base.

Both companies provide bases into which you can insert the trees, I prefer the metal pewter one (added weight).

Now use plastic filler caulk, whatever to sculpt the trunk don't be tidy be messy, start with the provided trunk widening it, cover the twisted wire and finish off over th ebase as shown.
I use a pointed palette knife, wet it to stop it sticking.

When dry I painted with varying shades of brown, from Burnt Umber to a lighter shade. Later when basing I finished off with a light dry brush of Iraqi Sand.

Once painted I glued the tree to the hex, if doing a triple hex remember to position them to allow foot soldiers through or tight to stop them.

To texture it I then spread filler on the hex, when dry I painted a mix of PVA & paint with a litle water, then drenched with sand. 

When that was dry another coat of my mix, to fix the sand.
When that dries I paint with XV-88 then dry brush with Iraqi sand.

Trees have leaves under them and I used some dry Birch tree masts I'd picked last autumn, unless you are in charge of the kitchen, a more dangerous option might be dried herbs from that kitchen. I fixed these in place with a spray of cheap hairlaquer, but will try a PVA/water spray next time

 I prefer not to cover the whole base with flock I flocked about 50% using static grass and then added flower clumps.

The other advantage of hexs is that you can push them together to get larger woods.

Hands Up! - The Build part 2 'Getting serious'

I've made scenery with polystyrene, but as you may have discovered they have issues with getting a decent cut and shaping; lots of static small balls and it might melt if you've not protected it and use the wrong paint or glue.

Whilst the games boards made by the club in the past had been made from one or more layers of polystyrene based on chipboard; and have been very successful I didn't think a 100mm (4") height would work as well so I was seeking an alternative and as described in Cautious Beginnings I played with a piece of  the material used to insulate a flat roof in my home. It is Recticel Instafit Polyurethane Insulation board (Kingspan/Celotex).

Luckily the island is very flat plateau and windswept so the only real elevation was the cliffs and the valleys where streams cut through the island's plateau as the period picture shows.

I discovered that at 100 mm the material:.

1)Has two layers of glass fibre sheet reinforcement through it so gloves should be used, the good news is that this also creates two stratum lines in cliffs, issues in other areas can be 'filled', it also makes a fantastic break line for you to create a new  horizontal level area.

2) Is very resistant to vertical pressure but gives easily if you push sideways into it. This allows you to shape the material with your gloved fingers and use your gloved hand to 'sand/polish' the finish.

3) It also gives off an odour that probably shouldn't be breathed in, as well as a fine dust, non static and easily hoovered up, [Warning clogs hoover quickly and probably also lungs so use a mask].

The plan was to use chipboard as a base, and then I would glue kingspan boards on top. (You know what happens to plans!)

Went to the local store and bought the chipboard and had it cut to size, (a must) and now have 5 times 2' x 5' boards. and ordered the Kingspan, 8' x 4' so needed three in order to get 5 lots of 2' x 5' happily these were delivered for a small charge.

Cutting the Kingspan to size was easy using a 'ripsaw' but I suggest you sandwich the Kingspan between two lined up pieces of chipboard, clamped together you will avoid cutting at an angle like I did with my first one. 

I had intended to use some hot wire tools I'd bought to cut Polystyrene to shape it, however they proved ineffective the material won't melt the same way. Thankfully it cuts well with a knife and sculpts quite well too, a little messy but thank god none of those balls, but still statically charged. I used a bread knife as I needed the length of blade, felt this was safer and found the Kingspan had two lines of woven glass fibre inside that a serrated knife could cut through. 

A lot of the work had been done for me by Chris Hall as I used his 'Map' as my template.

With boards and Kingspan cut to size I placed the Kingspan and then laid the 'Map' over the top allowing me to measure the Kingspan, look closely you can see the island already in place.

Having cut the Kingspan to length I peeled the aluminium foil off what would be the base as I felt the PVA glue would adhere the two elements better without it.

Peeling off the top layer of aluminium foil I started carving and modelling the material. Do use a mask!

The red lines show where the fibre glass mesh is and I used it to my advantage, the lower line became the highest point of the beach and street level in the town. I used a model knife to cut a 'V' for the valley and then formed the shape by simply rubbing my gloved fingers like sandpaper over it pushing away the waste. The cliffs were cut with a bread knife the mesh adding an unexpected bonus to the look.

However I couldn't sculpt the beach to my satisfaction and ended up using corrugated card, a layer by the seawall to raise that end and then a full beach piece peeling the back off the last inch to give me a sharper slope.

As you can see the sea is patterned wall paper. I put PVA on my beach and poured sand on. I also reinforced the sea wall with mastic just in case.

Once shaped to my satisfaction I applied PVA glue and sand to all cliff edged and beaches, reapplying when dry, you may need three thin coats, beware of applying too much sand/PVA as the mix will slide down the slope. When ready I started painting with ordinary emulsion paint.

Terrain skeleton complete, time for dressing.

Whilst this was for a 20mm game, the scenery was so flat any scale game could be played on it, although we began to limit ourselves with the placements we inserted, but it had to be done. Nonetheless one set of judges deemed it was a 10mm setup for a 20mm game, they ignored our research and the facts, apparently field lines should be man height hedges not low scrub even if the map and photographs showed otherwise.

Did I care, yes, however the best accolade for all our work came from a Frenchman who saw the game at Crisis in Antwerp, who pointed at the layout and named both island and town, a Result! Merci monsieur, très apprécié !

Moving onwards I used cheap towelling from ASDA (rough ground) and thin corduroy (farmland) from a local sowing shop. Builders caulk was applied to all roads and an old child truck (to scale) run along it whilst still wet to give me the ruts in the muddy roads.

One of my dislikes with pieced terrain boards is the joins I tried to mitigate this having flaps of terrain cloth overlapping the boards. Field cloth would extend beyond the board to the road edge on the next board. if you can't see what I mean in the above I've highlighted it below.

Me OTT? Yup! In the end I followed this idea with the town and fortress, despite hours of getting it just right I removed Kingspan replacing it with a piece of MDF, with wall paper cobbles that the town's building could sit on.

As you see that cover a lot of the joint.

To make packing for transport between shows easy and we went to a few in the UK and Crisis in Belgium. Nothing was glued in place.

To avoid damaging the board by pushing in and removing trees I inserted and glued rawlplugs into the board that allowed me to insert and remove the K&M trees easily.

The two pieces of MDF on the right of the above picture were my templates for building the fort seen in the picture below. I used Railway Scenic card to cover the walls and hide the Kingspan core.

The finished town with port and overlooking fort. It was the guns on this fort that had to be taken by the allies.

Finished Project

Transportation and storage mode.

At Bovington Tank Museum the Allies commence their seaborne assault.

Other articles on Hands Up!

Hands Up! MadGame

The Build Part 1 - Cautious Beginnings