Warg Riders - Removable Riders and with arrows.

Recently got into this old game again, I say old as I played it when it first came out in 2001 but I wasn't overwhelmed at the time even though I'd read all the books in the 1970 and many times since and even The Silmarillion twice.

Either the rules or I have changed sufficiently for me to pick it up and play and I've gone down the inevitable route of buying units to make a fighting force with a little extra so I can tweak for variety.

Having played a few games with friends and using proxy pieces, as well as original unpainted plastics I'd bought in 2001. (Is it really 23 years ago!😰) I decided I needed to assemble some forces, Minas Tirith and Mordor were obvious starters as I had the original ancient plastics.
I then purchased the Mordor  Battlehost box and started to assemble the wargs as a newbie player I'd managed a few game with proxy pieces before assembling my wargs. and learnt that either the rider or mount could continue alone and this is reflected in my assembly. 

I assembled the Wargs enlarging the hole to glue in a small magnet and painted them up.

Wargs undercoated and prepped with magnets 

Painting position

Then I painted the riders with their feet still on the sprue using Blu-Tack to attach them to my dowel stand.

When I'd finished I removed the sprue and tag that slots into the Warg, drilled a hole at that point glued in the top of a panel pin and voila, separateable riders and mounts, no need to buy spare Wargs.

Drilled a hole with a small 0.6mm bit using it to locate the position as I find I have more control and it gives the larger bit something to fix on. Also if it's not quite right you can alter the point of entry with the larger bit.

The panel pins I used have a 1mm shaft, a 2mm head slightly bevelled at the top. Using a 1mm bit I drilled into the prepared position and when that was deep enough a short way with the 2mm bit. As nothing is ever exact I used a 3mm bit to help counter sink the panel pin's head. I did this just using the bit with my fingers, a single turn is enough. Why not fix it in the drill? I feel it gave me more control, slowed me down and stopped it going too deep.

Ready for the panel pin.

Why a panel pin + magnet rather than 2 magnets? Well the pin will fit anywhere on the magnet, so you can choose the position of the model. A magnet would over-ride your choice and place it where it wants it. Oh and get the magnets the wrong way around and the opposite poles will reject any idea of placing them together.

Tools for the job

I also have a thing about Arrows, some models call out for them.

I used the small drill bit 0.6mm as my pins are 0.5mm wide I drill into the hand to create a hole for the arrow/pin.

I then push the sharp end into the hand, align it with the bow and cut off at the required length. This leaves you with a nice sharp arrow.

Remove the pin push the sharp end into BluTack paint twice. 

Apply glue to blunt end use that to dab glue on bow above fist then push blunt end into hole you drilled and push home with a block of wood, against the sharp end of the wood. I don't recommend pushing in with your fingers.

When secure paint the end of the pin with bolt gun or whatever your metal choice is.

If you look closely you might notice I have four types of Warg positions. In the box you only get two variants 'A' and 'B' did you know you could glue Left 'A' to right 'B' and Left 'B' to right 'A' swopping the sides?

K and M Trees for LotR

If you're playing a game you need scenery and IMO trees, usually quite a few.

I'm known for always overdoing it, so I've done 20.


One of the complaints people make in the game is that the basing for scenry is so thick the models teter and fall over if the are half way on a terrain piece. So I used Hexs from Kallistra they are 2mm wide made from plastic, I've had no issues glueing terrain on. The weight of the trees will make a triple Hex bend ifyou hold it at one end,  but so would a 12"/30cm ruler if you put a lead weight at one end.

Basing material sorted I then chose the trees, these I bought in 2008/9 for the demo game Hands up! that i took to shows. They've been in and out of boxes and still look good, sure they shed but keep then in the samebox and glue what drops off abck on, I've done this once in 14 years. The trees are from K&M

Trees however you can get them from Kallistra too. 

Note the length of metal below the provided trunk, cut it off at the length you want, vary it and alter the height of the tree, then using super glu screw the metal trunk into the base.

Both companies provide bases into which you can insert the trees, I prefer the metal pewter one (added weight).

Now use plastic filler caulk, whatever to sculpt the trunk don't be tidy be messy, start with the provided trunk widening it, cover the twisted wire and finish off over th ebase as shown.
I use a pointed palette knife, wet it to stop it sticking.

When dry I painted with varying shades of brown, from Burnt Umber to a lighter shade. Later when basing I finished off with a light dry brush of Iraqi Sand.

Once painted I glued the tree to the hex, if doing a triple hex remember to position them to allow foot soldiers through or tight to stop them.

To texture it I then spread filler on the hex, when dry I painted a mix of PVA & paint with a litle water, then drenched with sand. 

When that was dry another coat of my mix, to fix the sand.
When that dries I paint with XV-88 then dry brush with Iraqi sand.

Trees have leaves under them and I used some dry Birch tree masts I'd picked last autumn, unless you are in charge of the kitchen, a more dangerous option might be dried herbs from that kitchen. I fixed these in place with a spray of cheap hairlaquer, but will try a PVA/water spray next time

 I prefer not to cover the whole base with flock I flocked about 50% using static grass and then added flower clumps.

The other advantage of hexs is that you can push them together to get larger woods.